Monday, November 30, 2009

settling in

Hello all! Sorry for the lack of blog posts. I have very limited access to internet and when I do have the chance to use it, I like to send personal emails or read up on your lives!
It is crazy to think about how I have already been at site for 3 months and that I have been in the country for almost 6 months. wow. One of my PC friends and I were talking about how interesting to think about how humans are so adaptable. During training, we both hated the food. Now, three months into site, we actually crave some of the local foods. We joke about how we are going to have such a hard time readjusting to life in America after actually enjoying foods that we once hated, getting accustomed to drinking warm beer, and various other social habits that we have taken on. We joke about how we are going to be very socially awkward back in the U.S. Just a warning! ha.
My puppy is doing quite well. I have not seen him in some days since we all went to Accra for Thanksgiving. My 12 year old friend is taking care of him and making him fatter by the day. He will be the fatest dog in all of Tutukpene, which is wonderful since all of the dogs look like they are starving. He is the cutest thing ever and it makes me feel so good to have something to come home to. :D I will try to post pics when I have a good enough internet connection. His name is Opukalo, which means "all is good" in the local dilect. And I have been seeing people from Tutukpene today in my marke town and they greet me with the name of my dog. It is fabulous. People are constantly asking how my baby/husband is doing. He is quite the star in my town. And rightfully so since he is the best looking dog in the whole town. :D
Tommorrow my village is having a naming ceremony for me. The chief apparently bought eggs, which are quite expensive, so it must be a pretty important shindig. They have named me "Tilin" which means "We love or like you." ha. I hope they still feel the same when I do not bring them money, electricity, or bikes after two years, which is what everyone in the town thinks I am there for.
My counterpart (the man who volunteered to work with me on community projects) and I have been doing a census, which includes asking questions about diseases experienced during the last year, number of people in the household, kind of latrine used, when they use soap, whether they practice family planning, etc. During the census, I have also incorporated two questions of my own, which are what the people see as the strengths in Tutukpene (since everyone is only talking about the bad or what they need to me) and what projects they would like us to work on together. Usually the first reponse to what projects we can work on is how I should bring them money, bikes, or electricity. Alot of my work during the next two years will just be educating the people on what I am actually there for and what community development is. The census gives us a good chance to begin that education.
My work has not really begun yet since I just arrived three months ago and I have been working hard to just make sure I am happy and want to be here and that I am somewhat a part of the community. I am glad that the Peace Corps does not want us to really start any projects for the first three months since their approach to community development is from a capacity-building, people-centered, grassroots approach. I do not want to begin projects that the community has no interest in and that I am just starting because it is from what I see needs to be done. So I have been identifying projects that I think the community is interested in and that would be sustainable. so far, this includes bringing another well to the community (which could take a least a year due to bureacracy), starting an HIV/Art club to simultaneously educate about sexual health and teach the teens to be creative, working on bringing latrines to interested community members, working with the farmer's group to promote a protein-rich tree called moringa and rabbit rearing, and learning how to make moringa soap from another volunteer in the Upper West and then teaching the women in my community to increase income. So many things, but living here and accomplishing even small tasks takes so much patience. My list includes so much more, but development and behavior change is a slow process so I always have to keep that in mind. In the meantime, I am surviving the sun and enjoying my community (for the most part) and my pup. :D

Bye! Happy Holiday season.
Lindsey

Monday, September 28, 2009

women in ghana- part 2

This week I have had some very interesting conversations with some of my friends about women so I thought I would continue the theme of last week.
I am only going to state what I observe, hear, and see so if you would like to discuss anything more, please email me.
These conversations began by me first asking what are some of the issues in Tutukpene. Apparently, some of the major issues are "women chasing men." One of my friends was joking, but also serious, about how his wife would not give him water to bath after farm because she did not want any women to come and "steal" him. But then everyday, she dresses very well and looks nice. I spoke with another couple and the same sentiment was shared about the threat of another woman coming to steal her husband. Nothing was mentioned about the role that the husband played in reciprocating the "stealing."
I discussed this issue at length with the couple. The woman stated that if another woman tried to steal her husaband, she would murder the woman. I do not actually believe that she would murder another woman, but the seriousness of her statement about her options describes her powerlessness and the extent of her poverty regarding her ability to provide for herself and her children without a man. She described that murdering the other woman would be her only option if she wanted her children to survive. This topic of "murder" then led us to discuss another topic that numerous people have spoken to me about. This is the belief that women are evil and "Satan" because that is how it is "written in the Bible." The woman explained to me that there are many evil women, who are Satan, because they use witchcraft to get married, steal husbands, and murder other women's husbands (aka hit women). Her husband then told me that plently of women murder other women of whom they are jealous. I was quite confused because I had not heard anything of this phenomenon and Ghanaians are generally peaceful and happy. He then clarified and stated that perhaps it is just some. His wife stated that it is quite easy to murder a husband or the other woman and it could be done in a minute with poison or by leading the husband down to the riverside to help her "carry" something. Though murder may be easy, I have not heard of any of these cases of women committing acts of violence like this. I asked if something like this has happened in T.P. and they told me that the stories were coming from other places in Ghana, meaning that they could be overstated or just rumors.
Some of these ideas may be shocking, such as the blatant belief that women are Satan. Many people in America still hold this belief, though it may be evident only through their actions or affiliations. I was discussing with one of my friends how it is not a woman's fault if she gets raped. It is his belief (or was) that it is a woman's fault since women are temptresses (Satan) and that men cannot control themselves sexually so women must control themselves for the sake of the men. We are still fighting this perception and the detrimental affects it has on the victims of rape and sexual assault in America.
These conversations are difficult to have. Depending on the person and my relationship with the person, I may just listen for the most part. I generally respond with my own perception that it is not necessarily women who are evil. I explain that I think both men and women can do good and bad. I then explain that I think we all have the ability to do good more often than bad.
I am asking alot of questions, learning about issues in T.P., learning about farming (their livelihood), cooking, making groundnut cake (peanut brittle), riding my bike, and trying to shade myself from the African sun. I really like the people here and am beginning to feel more and more like a member of the community. I am looking forward to this weekend. There is a huge funeral so it will be a crazy dance party for sure. whoop. whoop.

tata
Lindsey

Monday, September 21, 2009

women in ghana- part 1

So this is a blog that I have been meaning to write for some time. I am quite interested in gender roles, as many of you know since I cannot stop talking about them. So obviously, I would want to comment on the roles of men and women in Ghana. Here goes...
I have been painting my rooms and everyone in my village is shocked. I cannot tell you the number of looks of disbelief I have received after telling people that I am painting my own rooms. Apparently, painting here is strictly a job for men. One of my friends wanted to help me paint, but claimed that she did not know how. I told her that it is a mere movement of your hand. So she learned to paint and actually really enjoyed it. Also, drawing seems to be only for boys. When one of my fellow volunteers was doing a presentation to children on health and how to stay safe and gave the children the assignment of drawing some unhealthy activities vs. healthy, the girls just stood to the back of the room while the boys drew. It is sad t0 see how something as important to a child's growth and imagination, such as drawing and being creative, becomes segregated and it is the girls who miss out. Many young girls I have talked to want to play football, but they do not know how or it is not acceptable for them to play. It is also the boys who site around in the afternoons playing board games while the girls watch, or more often than not, are caring for their younger siblings, making food, doing the wash, etc. It seems that the young men have more free time than the girls so they have the time to develop their creativity, play games that develop their minds, and just be kids.
How my colleague saw that the girls deferred to the boys in just the simple act of drawing is a microcosm for the roles of men and women here. During church meetings in my village, when there is a matter to be discussed in front of the whole church, it is only the men who speak. The congregation is segregated by sex, so neither sex will be distracted (!). Thus, it is only the male side of the church that actually gives their input as to what should be done about the issue. This is also the pattern in community meetings and even in the Peace Corps with our Ghanaian trainers. If men are present, women will not speak aloud. It was quite frustrating to see this pattern within the Peace Corps, which has the objective to empower women especially. When our trainers would be presenting about certain topics, such as the history and politics of Ghana, it would be only our male trainers who would present, though the women were just as capable as presenting, if not more so. Also, our trainers lived in the communities with us during training and it was a given that if there was a female trainer in the community, she would automatically take on the role of cooking for the male trainer though both were working the exact same hours.
Both the men and women here work extremely hard. The major source of income is from farming yams, cassava, plantains, maize, etc. Both men and women go to farm, but sometimes the women stays home to cook, clean, or grind/roast some of the products from the farm. Washing clothes by hand and cooking over a coal pot is hard work. I know that my host father thought that my host mother did not do anything all day, just because she stayed at home while I was living there. This was very frustrating to hear because I witnessed how hard she worked everyday and also because of the historical perception (that is perhaps fading out a bit in the U.S. due to both mother and father taking a greater role in child-rearing) that taking care of children and home is not "work."
Inevitably, this ties into sex. One of my friends has come to me about questions about her menstrual cycle that she should have known about three years ago, though she is 19. Another one of my friends has tried to ask his teachers and his father honest questions about sex, but no one will answer his questions. Youth seem hard pressed for information about natural functions. It seems that women cannot express their desires openly. They must wear a string of about 5 strings of beads around their waist, which purpose is to signal to the woman's partner that she would like sex without actually expressing herself verbally.
Hope you found this interesting! I am learning so much....

Lindsey

Monday, September 14, 2009

fixing my house and such things like this

Hello! So for the last few weeks, I have been busy just trying to make my house a home. Getting rid of things the previous volunteer left behind, painting, cleaning, etc. My friends and I painted my kitchen a bright green and my bedroom a bright blue. In Ghana, it is all about the bright colors. Actually in some of the native languages, they only have names for the four primary colors-blue, green, red, and yellow. The literal translation for the word yellow is "chicken fat." Hmm...interesting that they would choose that rather than say the sun? ha. My friends and I discussed the meaning of colors a bit. Red is used to symbolize both danger and love (makes some sense since love can be dangerous, yes? ha) . Green is fertility and blue means the dawn. Red and black are the colors worn during funerals. Red in this context is used to symoblize warning. But since death happens so frequently and without any previous indication, I guess the warning is not necessarily to use mosquito nets, eat better, wear condoms, don't work yourself to death, but perhaps to take care of your soul and whatnot.
So I love my new rooms. I feel so much better just living in my house now. It is beginning to feel like my own. I also feel a bit guilty for having the things I do- a propane stove, kitchen supplies, paint, a nice bed, a desk, etc, since there is just so much poverty. To care about and make our living conditions aesthetically pleasing is truly a luxury of industrial countries. I also recognize that if I do not make myself comfortable and do what I need to do to cope and be able to last here, then I will be worthless. One aspect about the PC that I do appreciate is their emphasis on doing things and establishing patterns that will make us happy and feel most like ourselves.
I have been cooking quite a bit. It still takes forever and it is quite an effort, but it is also one of those few things that make me feel in control of my health and who I am. I found a cute puppy today...one of the cutest I have seen so perhaps it will be a welcome addition to my home. :D
I have been making friends and having a good time! Hope to write more later. Only have a minute left....
Love
Lindsey

Monday, August 31, 2009

so much to say!

Hello! I wrote a blog post a few weeks ago, but the lights went out so my work was erased. Hopefully the electricty will stay on long enough for me to finish this post.

We swore in to the Peace Corps on August 13. I was a part of the African dancing troupe who performed at the ceremony. That was interesting. ha. Basically the ceremony seemed to be focused on our host families being able to witness us making fools of ourselves, whether during the dance ceremony, due to our somewhat gaudy, elaborate attire, or during our language presentations. They loved it, though, and I actually had a good time. I usually shy away from fan fare like that, but in Ghana, the more elaborate and what would appear over the top to us (facial expressions, clothing, etc) is all the more welcomed and praised. So I just roll with it and have a good time.

The morning after the swearing in ceremony was one of the most stressful of my entire life. Two of my homestay brothers traveled down to the town I was staying in to meet me. I think my homestay mom maybe didn't just say meet me, but perhaps, come see if you want this person to be your wife. It was pretty intense. I had gone to bed late the night before since all of the PCVs went out to celebrate. I had to wake up early and figure out a way to shove all of my stuff into a bag, say goodbyes, take pictures (I always wait to the last minute), and go see the seamstress to pick up my dress that she should have had done a week ago. So I am shoving everything into this huge bag and the zipper breaks while at the same time that I am attempting to dry out my water filter and my homestay mom is getting quite angry at me because she thinks that she is supposed to keep the water filter and does not want the PC to accuse her of stealing. So then she sews my zipper and runs all over town asking all of the other PCVs whether I am telling the truth about how I do need to take the water filter. Then my youngest homestay brother (about 27) is trying to get me to sit down (I am running late like usual!) and have a serious conversation with him about why I will not respond to his comment about how he wants to see me again and what am I going to do about it. I really don't know what to do about any of this, least of all his demands, so I tell him I have to pack and walk out. I am packed and on time, but then the seamstress is still sewing my dress as I go to her house. Ah! I go to the taxi station to wait with the other PCVs and try to locate my host mom to say goodbye. She is still on her crazy mission to verify the truth about the stupid water filter. Finally she comes, but then my dress is still not done so she runs to pick it up. Finally, I can leave. Given the oddities in my homestay family and the interesting experiences I had with them, I really did have a good time. It was quite entertaining and they did the best they could to accomodate me. As I was leaving my host mom ran to the house once more and handed me 10 oranges before I left. Then I saw that as she turned away she was beginning to cry. She told me once before (she imparted to me many interesting tidbits of knowledge...not necessarily wisdom) that people do not need friends. She said that she is happy with her life of just her children and her husband (though she also told me we should run away from him together?!) and that friends will bring you down. Having said that, I think that she enjoyed having someone else to talk to, perhaps a friend, even.

So fast forward...I have been at my site, Tutukpene, (Google map it!) for almost two weeks now. Right now I am in my market town, Nkwanta, to buy a gas stove and meet with other PCVS tomorrow. This is also where I do my banking. Even when I am in Nkwanta, I miss the people in T.P. I have an entourage of 12- year old small boys (term used to describe boys under the age of like 16 who generally fetch things for you and do chores if need be by bribing them with some candy) who come to my house about 4 times a day. They help me fetch water, cook, etc. They also just sit on my porch alot and sing African pop songs, bust some dance moves, are learning to knit, etc. I enjoy their company and we just have a good time together. Hanging out with them reminds me of hanging with my cousin Steven. Though, with Steven, there is more license to get into mischief, and I miss that. Keep up your crazy ways boy!

For the first three months, the PC does not want volunteers embarking on extensive projects. The purpose of the first three months at site is to become integrated within the community and understand what the needs of the community are and how to address those needs. The literature in the PC is very strengths-based, which is a social work term for looking at what is going right in the community as opposed to what is going wrong. The philosophy is that there are always things going right and the way to make more things go right, or improve the community, is to build on these strengths. To be able to identify the strengths, I need to spend time in the community and with community members conducting censuses (censi?...my English is so poor!I need a dictionary to read for fun. ) I will also travel to some of the satellite communities in which I will be working every so often this week. At this stage, it is all about community assessments.

Since I have only been at site for two weeks, I have just been working on getting to know people. Last night, I went with one of my friends to watch a football match on TV. In T.P., we do not have electricity, except for one store and one bar. The bar has a satellite so when there is a football or boxing match, you can pay 50 cents to watch it. In terms of entertainment, there are funerals, church, playing boards games, playing football, watching me try to cook over a coal pot (pretty much a disaster). There is going to be a huge funeral this next weekend and people in the town are already asking if I am getting ready to dance, due to the last funeral weekend when I cut a rug. Funerals are crazy, at least when the sun goes down! There are strobe lights, a huge sound system, a million rug rats mosh pitting and gyrating like I have never seen, and the party doesn't stop until the wee hours of the morning. I am not exactly sure why funerals are like...death is seen differently all over the world and experienced differently. I do know that death happens so frequently and seemingly without a reason. Everytime you ask why someone has died, the answer is simply that he or she fell sick. So much for our obsession with autopsies.

I have had quite a bit of free time, as is common in the PC. Thus far, I have knit a headband, a coin purse, a potholder. The small boys want to learn to knit. One thing that would be a great present would be some cheap knitting needles and yarn so that I could actually start a club. :D I have also read about three books in the last two weeks. I highly recommend When You are Engulfed in Flames by David Sedaris. It makes my life of going to the bathroom down a hole in the ground with cockroaches seem not so strange after all. (Hint, hint...Michael, hurry up and send me your Sedaris book. I need some comic relief!)

I'll write some more posts in the following weeks about stuff some of you are interested in...women's roles, economics in Ghana, sociopolitical stuff. Living in a developing country again is so eye opening. I won't deny that it is hard and frustrating (waiting for 3 hours at the bank to do a simple transaction), but the people are so down to earth and welcoming. I think, as in most places where the living conditions are not favorable, it is the people that make it worth it.

tata!
Linds

Monday, July 20, 2009

family planning clinic

Hello,

Today, our sector activity was to visit a family planning clinic about 30 minutes from our homestay village. We have discussed before in sector the various methods of birth control women and men use and the most effective ways to communicate the importance of family planning. This is an issue that is of deep concern to me so I thought I would just share what I have learned thus far about family planning in Ghana.

A few other volunteers and I recently completed a cultural presentation (the topic was up to our choosing) on the process of giving childbirth. During the process of collecting information, we learned that the majority of women are giving birth in hospitals since the national health insurance plan began about 5 years ago. It is a very good plan, with extensive coverage. It is not compulsory to join, but hospitals visits are very expensive without the plan. It is free to give birth in a gov. hospital, whereas it costs about 7 dollars to give birth with a midwife. Midwives are now a last resort and are only used if it is too late to get to the hospital. The overwhelming response we received from the women was that it was much better to give birth in a hospital because "you get more meds." It is interesting to see the contrast between the States, where midwives are gaining in popularity, and Ghana, where Westernization and technology is gaining influence. It made me wonder whether the hospital is actually better or if the perception that hospitals are better is prevalent due to the status given to "the white man" and the U.S.
During this process, we also learned that the birth rate is decreasing in Ghana. Women used to have 10 children and now, at the most, they have four. Of course, this may not be true in the North (with a Muslim influence) and in rural areas. Women did make the connection that though giving birth is free, the children still cost alot of money to raise.

There has been a shift in focusing primarily on the women to educate about family planning. This is because NGOs and the government have realized that men are the power keepers in the families and thus, control whether or not their wives can use birth control. In Ghana, there is a large campaign titled "Real Men Plan Their Families" and I am sure that I will be involved in family planning community activities in Volta. The nurse at the family planning clinic informed us that for women to get a hysterectomy, they must have the consent of their husband. We were quite confused about this because not all women are married and what if the husband is abusive or the marital situation is not good. The nurse finally understood our question and told us that if necessary, another family member can sign as the witness. In Ghana, they have the capability to perform vasectomies, but the nurse told us that she has never known a man to get one done. To Ghanian men, a vasectomy is comparable, in their eyes, to castration.

We also found out that abortion is illegal in Ghana unless the mother's life is in danger. Our Peace Corps trainer told us that many of the Peace Corps education volunteers have had young women die in their classrooms due to botched abortions. Thus it is the same situation that existed in the U.S. before abortions were legal. Women and young girls would still perform abortions, just with bottles, herbal medicines, coat hangers, etc. One of the problems is that young women cannot get family planning without a parent and thus, they do not practice family planning until after their first child or a dangerous abortion.

I am looking forward to working in Tutukpene because one of my primary responsbilities will be working at the District Clinic, working with mothers and children, and working with the youth. Much work to be done!

I will be visiting Tutukpene on Saturday for site visit and will be back for my last few days at homestay on Friday. Then the swearing in ceremony! It is all happening so fast.

tata,
Lindsey

Saturday, July 18, 2009

obama rama

Hello all,

So last weekend was a big weekend since we made the trek to see Obama at the Accra Airport. It has been our understanding for the last month or so that Obama was not scheduling a PC event due to his tight schedule. A few days before Saturday, we found out that, indeed, there was going to be a PC event. :D Whoop whoop!
All the PC trainees left for Accra on Saturday morning from our training site near Kofrigidua. We traveled in two PC vans and a red tro. The trip took about three hours. We got to the PC site in Accra and got our tickets for the event. We then headed to the Embassy, though this was somewhat difficult since all the roads leading to the airport were blocked by the military. We had to wait at roadblock for about thirty minutes until the fully armed officers were thoroughly impressed by our PC logo on the vans and our laminated letter from the US Gov. We then waited at the airport, in the air conditioned Embassy buses, for at least an hour and half. Life in Ghana entails not knowing what is happening 24/7 and lots of waiting. While waiting, we watched the award-winning film Sheena. The themes include a blonde child being abandoned in Africa and then fulfilling the prophesy that a "Golden Child" will come to the tribe and save them (since they are not capable of saving themselves), a wise, older African woman that only speaks in prophesies and parables, an American journalist that finds Sheena and then is changed forever into a better man because of this savior/Golden Child/blonde with no hair on her body except her flowing golden locks. How ironic that in the Embassy bus we watched a movie with the themes of colonialism and Africa as the "Other."

Finally we got in line to get in our positions to see Obama. In typical Ghanian style, there was no order or process for letting people into the gate. There were about 100 of us from the Peace Corps waiting to get in and then about another 300 Ghanian. The police only instituted some semblance of order when the Ghanians began to push. There was a seperate space for the Peace Corps volunteers that was about 15 feet from the podium of the Ghanian president and Obama's podium. Before we saw Obama, there was drumming and dancing. Helicopters were taxing around the site of his speech constantly. He arrived at the airport in a helicopter and then was driven to the podium. When he arrived, we were ecstatic. It seemed so surreal. We were cheering so loudly that we did not hear what the Ghanian president, John Atta Mills, was saying during his first few lines. I could not see Obama too well. I stood on my tiptoes for the majority of the event. I just relished the fact that I could hear his renowned oratory skills first hand. I felt so priveleged. He gave the PC two shout outs and we responded widly. :D His speech focused on the themes of the extreme wealth Africa possesses in terms of man-power, the symbolic importance of Ghana (Cape Coast, first African nation to gain independence from a colonizer, one of the most peaceful countries in Ghana, the long-standing relationship with the U.S.), the appropriate role the U.S. can take in assisting Ghana, and the more important role the youth in Ghana most play in the development and sustainability of their own country.

What I find very interesting is the hope that Obama gives Ghanians. This event sparked many conversations about the U.S. , politics, and Obama. Of course, they were very pleased due to his administration's large monetary donation. That aside, the sentiments Ghanians express about Obama and the exuberance their countenances exhibit is an effect a bit more untangible. Many of us have walked through our villages to cheers of "Obama! Obama!" One just has to mention Obama and children and adults alike smile their widest smiles. At times like these, it feels so good to be an American. Policies and his first months in office aside, their joy is understandable. A man, who does not look so different from themselves, has the highest position in America for the first time in history. Seeing through their eyes, anything is possible, and this spirit is hard is contagious. At moments like these, I put away my intellect and the political issues I am concerned about, and just pump my fist in response to their cheers.

Oh yeah...one of the first comments my host mother said to me after I returned from Accra was, "Obama, what a fine, fine man. A handsome man!" She then proceeded to dance about the room for three minutes. We all have our reasons for jubilation. :D

hope all is well,
Lindsey

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Back from Field Trip

Hey, so the blog has not been updated in some time. We have been really busy with language training and technical training.

Everyday, we all have language classes for about 4 hours (a little long if you ask me). We are all learning different languages based on where we have been placed with Ghana. I am learning Twi or attempting to learn it. We then learn skills related to our sector. Thus far, we have learned about the various styles of latrines, visited an HIV/AIDS clinic, visited some boar holes, have met various community leaders and organizations. We just got back from a field trip to the North and then to the Volta region. In the North, we stayed with a current volunteer and visited her community's water source, a dam, and played in a football match. Football is quite big here so one way to do community outreach is by organizing a football game and doing a presentation during half-time. We did a presentation on guinea worm, which is a parasite that is in the water and then after a year, pops through someone's leg (or another body part) to try to find water to lay more eggs. It is been eradicated in many places in Africa and Ghana, but it is still prevalent in the North. We then went from the North to the Nkwanta/Volta region. In the Nkwanta region, we payed a visit to a Women's Development Project, the District Hospital, and a current volunteer's site. At Cynthia's site, we met with the workers at the clinic, visited the chief, and watched various dramas presented by students on issues affecting Ghana. The topics of the dramas were HIV/AIDS, the importance of education, and saving money. My site is only 10 K from Cynthia's site so we passed by it and I got to see my future home! I am so excited. My site is nestled right up against a small mountain. Apparently, women come down from the mountain to sell mangoes, oranges, papaya, etc. Also, the other volunteers near my site have gone up the mountain to do baby-weighing at a community in the mountains. They make a whole day trip out of it-the hike, the community outreach, and then the community feeds them. I just saw the outside of my house and it looks like a standard living environment for volunteers. Cynthia did tell me that during funerals, for whatever reason, they place the loudspeaker right by my window and blare music all night. Funerals here are a time to party. They are quite the fete. Perhaps if I really cannot sleep, I will go to Cynthia's. Cynthia also told me that Tutukpene (my site!) has quite the nightlife so they usually meet in my village for some cold refreshments. My village has a two story bar (spot) - a big deal! haha. Besides the natural beauty and the social life, Cynthia has told me that Sarah (the volunteer I am replacing) loves Tutukpene and has had a great experience. :D

So that is sort of boring stuff. There have been quite a few funny cultural situations. My friend Elyse and I went to church last Sunday. We both do not go to church in the states, but here it is recommended to go, at least once, because church is such a large part of the lives of Ghanians.So we went. I must admit that I took my sweet time getting ready in the morning and thus, we were like two hours late. In Ghana, that does not really matter since church lasts 5 hours. I was really apprehensive about going, but I had avoided it the weekend before, so I bit the bullet. If it was any indication of what I was getting myself into, one of my fellow volunteers left about two minutes after I got there because she could not handle the messages being conveyed about the role of women any longer. I missed out (?) on that part, but came when the two hour long offering session had just begun. So in Ghana, giving offering lasts like an hour or two. They just keep playing more music and calling people up to the altar. If they see foreigners (Americans=money), they congratulate you for coming by singling you out to donate money and call your name out as if you have won the lottery. Many volunteers get letters from community churches announcing that they have been selected to donate a given sum of money. It seems that most politely decline. So the culmination of the service is when Elyse and I are called up to the altar and they announce that we cannot go back to our seats unless people donate 10 ghana cedis for each of us. That is quite a large sum so I expected both women and men to donate money and for the money to come from various individuals. Nope. I guess it was literally an auction. The pastor donated 10 cedis for Elyse and then a young man, about my age, donated 10 for me. Under his breath, after the donation, the pastor then told me that I will marry this benefactor. Um yeah....I stayed for about 5 more minutes. I doubt I will be going back. hah.

While we were in the North, the chief brought us a live guinea fowl as a welcoming present. Some young boys helped slaughter it and that was dinner. I have never smelled fresh blood. Not sure if I want to again. I'll stick with groundnut paste (peanut butter), avocados, and soy kebabs. Actually, I have been trying many things here. I do like fufu because it is hearty and takes on the flavor of the soup it is served with. I love a dish called red red, which is fried plantains, rice, and beans in a red sauce. I am excited to cook for myself and eat more cabbage and veggies. My host family tries hard but they do not understand the concept of fiber.

So, I am sure you all are surprised that I actually played football since my hand-eye coordination is seriously lacking. It was so much fun! We were great comic relief. Only one of the guys in our group wanted to play and he played for the first half. So it was all women against these agile, quick-steppin Ghanian men. Some of us had never played before. My friend asked me, "So is the theory of the game?" Oh yes. It was ridiculous.

call me or email me!
linds

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

my digits

hey y'all. so if you want to call or text me, you can at 0220542370028. it is free for me to receive calls. at this point, i can't really call any of you because i am making only 2 dollas a day. sorry! hope to hear from those of you who can call, though.

tata
linds

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

festival today

hey yo. so i don't have too much time to write since i need to get back for language class soon. today there is a large festival in my village to ask the ancestors to bless the land. there should be some fun festivities going on tonight, as well as african dancing. apparently the other volunteers and i might have to dance in front of the chief. not sure if that will be a blessing since we all pretty much look like robots. ha.

so every night, some of the other volunteers and i have been learning to drum and dance. it is not really a lesson as so much a community gathering for 100 kids with big eyes staring at the white people making fools of ourselves. we have a good time together and all of the other health volunteers like to have a good time. i must admit, though, that i tried to master the cowbell and after ten attempts to get the beat, a youngster took over and i sank back into my seat. i was able to play the drums and dance. something about actually being able to feel the beat in my body....

yesterday, our assignment was to do a census of the community we are staying in for now. my group did a census of villager's opinions and knowledge of family planning. it was quite interesting. i love learning about people's ideas and perceptions about reproductive health and family planning. we found that the majority of the women do know about family planning since they found out about options from a doctor in accra or tamale. a few of the women do not want more children but do not use any form of family planning. um yea...
also, another disconnect was the fact someyoung girls get pregnant here at the age of 15. family planning is not an option for them until they have their first child and after that, they are sent to the clinic to get birth control. there is no orientation around prevention. and young girls must be accompanied by parents to get birth control. thus, the probability of becoming a young mother is high. we spoke to men and it seems the majority of them use condoms, though they do not see this as a family planning method. it seems that they see the use of condoms as only prevention against stis.

we also completed a community map on sites that women in the community identify as important to them. they identified these as the farm (yams, cassava, plantains, cocoa), church, the market, and the clinic. the women do the majority of the labor in the day. the men's work is very strenous, but it gives them a bit more free time and this has been identified as a reason for the prevalence of stis within some areas of africa. i am not sure of this village yet since people seems to deny that there are people with hiv/aids living in the village. when another group attempted to ask questions relating to hiv/aids, the women just giggled.

another interesting experience was last night when my host father, with 40 children staring at me, told me that the children told him that they want to have white skin and go to america. i could not believe what he was saying and that these children actually said these things. i then promptly told him to tell them that all skin colors are equal and all are equal. hmm...beyond that, a young man grabbed my arm and told me to take him to america. crazy. i told him no and walked away. all of us are having similar experiences. one of the my fellow volunteers wants to tattoo a dollar sign on her head since people always ask her for money. ha. it is a given with life here.

oh yes, and my site in the volta region does not have electricity. i don't mind. it is interesting how candles cost 2.5 cedis each and a month of electricity only costs 5 cedis a month. hmmm....
thus, if you send anything(parentals!) make sure it has a solar charger.

other ideas:
copies of Ms. magazine, NY Times, Time, Oregonian, National Geographic, etc.
candles
mix cds (Chrissy!, Michael! haha)
stationary with envelopes
incense
matches

of course, thank you for following my blog and sending something is not necessary at all. i just think of things and it is also a way for me to keep track of things i should pick up when i am in europe or south africa. ;D

tata
linds

Friday, June 19, 2009

update!

so sorry communication has been so sporadic. two weeks have felt like a month or so. so i went on vision quest in the northern region of ghana. it took about 18 hours to get there. in ghana, the mode of transportation from city to city is called a tro-tro and they somewhat resemble cargo vans. they pack about 18 people in them, five bikes and a few goats on top, and in one of ours, there was a chicken running around on the floor. so for all of you wanting to come visit, this your warning. ha.

that said, i found out my fate for the next two years and i have been placed in a village in the volta region. the volta region is near the border of togo. these means that i hope to hop the border occassionally to get baguettes and real coffee. from what people have told me, my site placement is one of the most beautiful in all of ghana. i am located at the base of a moutain and the volta region is quite lush. i am so grateful for this placement. i told the peace corps health volunteer director that one of my coping mechanisms is to be surrounded the natural beauty. it never hurts to be direct.

i am also excited about my placement because the volunteer that i am replacing is very committed to her projects and is focused on sustainability. thus, she strongly advocated for a replacement volunteer (not all sites are replaced]. i have large shoes to fill, but i am looking forward to getting started and setting up my home. the three months after swearing in are reserved just for setting up your household, getting your bearings, and getting to know the community. i am pleased that this is the orientation of the peace corps. my assigment will be diesease preventions, HIV/AIDS education, and child/maternal health.

i am staying right now with a host family in the southern region of ghana. all volunteers receive language training, sector training, and culture traning for ten weeks then we swear in. i am staying with a family who live in a compound setting. i do have my own room and that is such a luxury. last night was my first night with them and apparently i am comic relief because everything i say they think is hilarious. they asked where my parents were and i told them that they live in america and that i left them for now and they could not stop laughing. the woman asked me why i did not have children. i am not sure if she really understands the peace corps. i could def not come here with both children and my parents. it is interesting....
last night, 40 children sat around and watched me as i drank tea. i will look forward to living alone once again!

a few interesting points...on vision quest, i stayed with a woman in the north of ghana, which is the muslim part of the country. i actually enjoyed it up there. i liked seeing how their religion affects their beliefs and lives and understanding that there is only a small percentage of muslims are the kinds that are villified and stereotyped in the media. the majority just work to provide for their families, keep their children healthy, and love to meet new people. we went to a baby weighing day, a naming ceremony, and numerous other health events. at the naming ceremony, the baby received his tribal scar on his cheek and was circumcised.

so a few things. i think this is the easiest way to ask questions.

mom-did you send the package with my prescription sunglasses?
katie-thanks for all the letters and the drawings. i will use them as wall art when i move!
i will get a phone as soon as i can and text people. i cancelled hotmail and so remember my email is lindseyinghana@gmail.com.
michael-could you have brian email me? i want to try to connect with him and i am sure he has better luck at using the internet than me. could you ask him to tell me how long he is here for, if he can/is willing tp travel within ghana, and what is the best way to reach him?

i wish i had packed a bit differently, as does everyone here!

a few ideas if you are going to send a package-
a shortwave radio
a solar powered battery
a solar charger [sold at rei] for my camera, phone, and ipod- will not have electricity and do not want to have to throw out batteries all the time
a yoga mat-i know! perhaps i will wait till vaca to get one
ginger candies, luna bars, black licorice, nuts, dried fruit, coffee, tea, other stuff that will not melt
a french press
pictures from calendars, artwork that i could put in my house
stuff for my future puppy!
the most recent edition of Our Bodies, Our Selves.


i found out that i have approx 48 days of vacation for my two years and that many people go out of the continent for their vaca. whoop whoop. so i am thinking morocco, france, italy, perhaps germany?, south africa. not sure...let me know if there are any takers.

hope all is well and just know that communicating here is a bit difficult.
thanks and love you!
linds

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

on a vision quest

hey party people! so it seems like i have been here for three weeks or so but i has only been a week. the sun slows life down and that is fine with me. speaking of, we were able to witness a harvest red moon for three days while in accra. it was magnificent and a good sign in my book.

so i am going on a vision quest in the northern region of ghana. i am going there to stay with a current health volunteer.

bye ! gotta catch the bus.

love
lindsey

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

gettin ready

So much to do! Many errands to run and I hate shopping. ha. All I want to do is knit, listen to NPR, and ride my bike. I am sure I will get everything done....eventually. I also need to bottle my blackberry wine finally and hope that I don't do it in haste so that they bottles won't angrily explode. But that will probably happen to me anyway. :O

I have been in contact with a few people who have been to Ghana and they all give the country and its people rave reviews. I am looking forward to meeting my fellow PC volunteers, doing public health work, wearing a bandana, and adopting a dog. I will also think it will be quite beneficial to have a change of lifestyle and learn to live in community. 

I am sure many of you have questions. I am linking a site I have found helpful in learning more about what it may be like during my two years. 


For those of you who may want to visit, I can accept visitors but long term visitors will have to get approval through the PC. I can accept visitors after my three months of training and then my first three months of service. 

Here will be my address from June 2 until the end of my ten weeks of training:

Lindsey Bishop, PCT
Peace Corps, Ghana
P.O. Box 5796
Accra-North, Ghana
West Africa

After that time frame, I will update you. 

Also, for mailing items, they do not recommend shipping chocolate or liquids. I truly appreciate the kind thoughts of shipping me vodka. So generous....hah. 

More later. The sun is out...time to get outside!
lindsey